Our verdict: Burberry’s second see-now-buy-now collection could only be described as a roaring success, at least visually speaking. The next few weeks will tell if customers are as enamoured with the collection as those in attendance at last night’s show were, but surrounded by Henry Moore statues in Maker’s House and watching sumptuous piece after piece waft down the catwalk, you could be under no illusions as to Christopher Bailey’s skill as a designer.
The collection was inspired by Henry Moore and backstage Bailey spoke of his long affinity with the art form, having grown up near the Yorkshire Sculpture Park. The show coincided with the opening of a Henry Moore exhibition in the space and dotted around the catwalk were looming statues, making the experience all the more immersive for those there. The collection itself was a nod to sculpture, subtly seen in interestingly cut knits, layered fabric and circular boot heels, and more exaggerated in oversized feathered capes, neck ruffles and enhanced silhouettes to close the show. Womenswear focused on exquisitely simple lace dresses, worn alone or layered over striped shirts, while men had shirts with a Henry Moore print and sweatshirts with graphic 3D thread swirling around them. Trenches were of course a fixture, coming in tweed and check in a nod to the British heritage of both the brand and this season’s muse.
The 78 limited-edition architectural couture capes – from beaded to feathered – that closed the show were made with references to Burberry’s archive and will make up part of a travelling exhibition beginning at Maker’s House today and travelling to Paris, Tokyo and Los Angeles.