Our verdict: Reflecting on an unnamed character Mullins created for his first season (AW14), three years later the British designer is bringing back his muse and asking: how has he changed? The answer it seems: quite a lot and not at all. The collection was both decidedly, unquestionably Alex Mullins, but it was also the most noticeably grown-up offering the young talented designer has so far presented in his career.
Revisiting an ongoing interest in what Mullins calls ‘encompassing environments and situations’, for AW17 the lines between who we are as people and the space we inhabit and interact with were blurred. With soft, comfortable fabrics – mohair, cotton, merino – and a 80s hued palate – chartreuse, beige, magnolia and tomato – the streetcast collection of models became the walking interpretation of long, lazy, childhood Sunday afternoons. Wrapped in a blanket, watching VHS tape after tape, becoming part of the furniture itself.
And so the familiar early 90s VHS graphics of our childhood’s featured on long, draped coats, with model’s faces covered with the plaid and cheque blankets of a day spent enveloped by one’s home. Deconstructed tailoring, outerwear emblazon with pockets, clean Japanese denim, fisherman rain hats, and a subtle but serious nod to the humble duvet trend.
Best moment: The indecisiveness of Sunday’s twilight captured in two-tone denim.