Haizhen Wang on why fashion is always a challenge
All hail the new puritan.
[H]aizhen Wang’s technical tailoring was inspired by aviation for AW16. Classic flying uniforms are a strong reference but with forms elongated and warped for a sense of supersonic movement. The designer’s technical expertise is applied to ensure that the references are more abstract than direct, though, with zips, seams and stripes often the last remaining evidence of the functional and utilitarian outfits that were a starting point for the designs. The collection is titled Falling, further subverting the flying theme.
Elongated sleeves, angular cuts and heavy duty layering add a sense of the experimental to a season that further establishes Haizhen Wang as an important fixture of the London fashion scene after launching his eponymous label in 2010. We caught up with him to discuss changes in the industry and plans for the new year.
Can you remember when you first fell in love with fashion?
I was born attracted to aesthetic things. The more I work in fashion the more I love it – fashion is my life now.
What have been the changes that you’ve witnessed in the fashion industry since starting your own brand in 2010, and how have these changes fed into your own business?
I think the most significant change has been the influence of social media. Nowadays, high-end fashion is much closer to the mass market because of the rapid growth of social media. It’s great for the fashion industry and I’m happy to see the market growth and more people interested in fashion than ever before. As a designer, I need to combine both the practical with aesthetic value when I create clothes, so I’m excited every time my customers buy my products which means they love my designs.
Where do you start with each new collection? What was the starting point for SS17, and do you prefer designing winter or summer clothes?
Normally I would start each new collection with my team in my London studio where we would discuss our thoughts on the last season and where we can improve. We’ll decide on the mood and aesthetics of the season, and think about consumer behaviour changes and commercial points. Then we’ll decide on the direction for the collection and go out to vintage markets and stores to start our research, as I’m heavily inspired by the past. I prefer working with heavier winter cloths, but every season is a fascinating experience as well as a new exciting challenge to myself.
You have a strong market in Asia as well as the UK, how do you balance style preferences for different territories join your collections? What are the considerations?
It is true that these are two very different markets, but my goal is to break the stereotype. I’m trying to create my designs with no borders, combining Eastern aesthetics with Western styles. I also use different concepts and technical skills to make ideal garments that are loved by different markets.
Is fashion kind enough to itself?
Fashion is a challenge in itself, albeit an attractive one.
What are the challenges facing a designer now?
To reach a better balance between art and practicality – fashion is art for people, not for itself. While the current market is getting more complex, it is increasingly important for designers to better understand the market dynamics and different consumer behaviours.
Who is your style icon?
Tilda Swinton or Kristen Stewart.
Do you have a ‘fashion moment’ that stands out for you from any era or any designer?
Alexander McQueen’s era was my fashion moment and lead me to my fashion journey.