One of the most unexpected trends this season – at least in Paris – has been the suit/kilt combo and this morning Kenzo added weight to the proposition. Their layered looks focused on function, utility, survival and individuality.
Many of the looks and colour palette had an outdoorsy feel. Military green dominated much of the colour palette alongside a shade of orange fit for the rescue services. Jumpsuits, waterproof nylon parkas and parachute seams on trousers, shirt and jacket sleeves were all design elements that pointed to the themes of protection and survival. Later silver pieces would be both fun and possibly a reference to heat blankets.
But this collection was also about signs, symbolism and individuality – after all, one of the things that Kenzo fans love is the brand’s sense of humour and ability to craft an iconic motif. AW15’s stand out example of this was the “Love Kenzo Respect Others Irony” imitating, and finding humour in, the idea of clothing care labels. Our personal favourite was ‘irony’, as it was accompanied by a picture of an iron. The sense of individualism was perhaps expressed in a slightly grungy, punk vibe to the clothes with bold stitching and space dyed knits. Speaking of space, there were various references to UFOs throughout the collection with a few pieces proclaiming that ‘they are going back’. Do Humberto Leon and Carol Lim know something we don’t?
The accessories reigned supreme this season with the drawstring leather totes really standing out. Leather boots, both in strips of leather and patchwork designs almost stole the show in some looks.
Finally the setting itself can’t pass mention. The new Philharmonie de Paris designed by architect Jean Nouvel is yet to be finished and the Kenzo guests were this morning the first members of the public to be alloyed inside the building for an event. It is an impressive structure and the round corridor with a view over the city allowing us to watch the sun finally show itself after an evening of rain, was indeed a special treat for all of the bleary-eyed press and buyers. Merci Kenzo!