Talking about representation and the alienating effects of the fashion industry with super stylist Yuki Haze

Hi Yuki, can you elaborate on the alienation and disillusion you felt within the fashion industry that inspired you to start Sukeban?

I think the fashion industry can be very exclusive, the atmosphere you get (sometimes) when you’re a creative just starting out in your field is that a lot of the exposure you want to attain can only be achieved by having a strong social media following, or by knowing somebody, or by being lucky. 

It’s always inspiring to look at new, up and coming talent on big publications, but it can be depressing when these individuals also happen to be friends with a big model, or have 50k followers on Instagram, or are very genetically blessed and have actually appeared in campaigns themselves. That’s not to credit talented individuals who happen to be blessed with the above (I’m speaking as someone who would probably not have attained many of the things I’ve achieved without a handy Instagram following behind me), but there definitely is a gap between the up and coming you see online, as lauded by big platforms, and the real up and coming. 

In addition to this, this exclusivity also 100% pertains to people of colour (and more so). Diversity is still a real issue in the fashion industry, not only in regards to including models of colour but also with hiring people of colour. It was important to both Erika and myself to produce a magazine and platform with a high content of images featuring women of colour, as styled or shot by women of colour.

On the flip side, in what ways do you think fashion and an interest in fashion can champion and encourage diversity and inclusiveness?

It’s always very satisfying and very inspiring when you see other publications or photographers or stylists or artists or any individual who is a person of colour working in an area of your interest producing creative work that you admire. 

I think fashion on a whole doesn’t really champion diversity, and it’s disappointing as well because often when it does it is merely a facade- a marketing tool energised by its willingness only to cater to a current trend, but there are individuals in the industry who are so multifaceted, talented and hardworking, who continue to champion the representation of people of colour, which is ultimately inspiring in itself.

So in conclusion, seeing people who work against a often very exclusive industry encourages me to try and attempt to do the same, and to continuously find ways to educate myself on social issues as well as explore these themes within my work. 

How does Sukeban cater to this?

Sukeban tries to cater to this, I don’t think we’re quite there yet but we’re on our way. The beginning was pushing a diverse Girls by Girls section, as well as featuring poc artists. At the moment I’m trying to get more interviews and writers online, as well as seeking to include woc of more sizes in both Girls by Girls and Editorial sections, as well as non-binary, trans and femme talent in these respective photography features. 

Sukeban was formed in Tokyo, where are you based now and where would you like to be based in the future? Where do you feel most creative?

Right now I’m based in London and I’d definitely like to stay here too, it feels like home. I feel the most creative here as I’m surround by people that I’m close to and admire- I always inevitably feel homesick when I go anywhere else, even if its a bigger city or busier. 

You also make some cool trousers and jackets, where can we buy them and what inspired your designs?

You can buy them online on www.yuki-haze.com or on my Depop (@yukihaze). 

I honestly just started making clothes that I liked wearing myself, customising vintage pieces that I picked up from markets, and from there on decided to make more to sell to others. 

It’s branched out a lot more now though, and I’ve started designing and making my own pieces from scratch, both jewellery and clothing, while incorporating all of these pieces in my own portrait projects. Right now I’m shooting an ongoing project called SadBadMadRad, which features clothing that I handmade for each model. It’s about the misconceptions of girlhood, so it’s a personal series to me. 

It felt right to incorporate everything I could possibly relate back to into every image. As a result, I’ve made a lot of of cut and paste trousers and tacky customised sunglasses. 

Describe your aesthetic in as few words as possible

Everything in moderation, including moderation 

Who’s style is vibing with you and inspiring you right now?

Wow there’s too many people who inspire me with their style. Probably Chang Sombatkamrai and Yasmina Atta (@warusom and @yasmina.tv). They’re both extra and I love it. 

What are you favourite accounts on Instagram?

The aforementioned, as well as @thinklikekandie and @oliviakaiafa for exquisite hair and make-up and @erikabowes2 for first class photography