With the exit of heritage brands like Ralph Lauren as well as new gen stars like Vaquera, the Big Apple’s runway schedule is depleted – but there’s still plenty to look out for.
This season has been a clash of the titans between America’s film industry and fashion world. Namely, the date for the Oscars was fixed for 10 February; while New York Fashion Week is still underway. As a result, proceedings on the East Coast were set to lose much of their celebrity glitz from the get-go. Adding insult to injury, designers like Ralph Lauren, Jeremy Scott and Tommy Hilfiger are all absent from the schedule whereas Tom Ford, M Missoni and Baja East all made the decision to show in…Los Angeles, of all places. Also absent from the line-up in the Big Apple are millennial faves like Vaquera and Telfar.
However, there’s still plenty to celebrate at NYFW. On Wednesday, during the men’s collections, up-and-comer Kenneth Nicholson delivered a dose of sunshine with a line entitled “From Grandma’s Couch” that saw models walk to a melange of Kendrick Lamar, Billie Holiday and excerpts from The Colour Purple – proving that there’s still nowhere like New York.
Thanks to Nicholson, we’re not quite ready to give up on NYFW; check out our picks of the shows to see below.
The de facto designer for cool girls and club kids everywhere, Priscavera’s refined 90s nostalgia had us all donning bustiers and mesh long-sleeves in the wake of her SS 2020 collection. Whatever she serves up for AW 2020, we’re sure you’ll see it out on Bushwick’s party people some time very soon.
Everybody’s favourite inclusive swimwear brand, Chromat, can always be relied upon to create some of the most Instagrammable runway looks of the season. As the buzz from their “sample size” bustier dress, modelled by body positive activist Tess Holliday for SS20, finally dies down, expect something equally show-stopping for AW 2020.
First stirring up a storm with their 2015 collection “My Pussy, My Choice”, Berlin-based label Namilia has never been one to shy away from a political statement. For AW 2020, porn actors Asa Akira, Marica Hase, and Jade Kush will be among the models walking for the label, in a gesture that’s basically a massive middle finger to SWERFs everywhere.
With its gender neutral collections, diverse casting and sexy take on minimalism, Eckhaus Latta’s forward-thinking attitude throughout the 2010s has practically carved the “new normal” for the 2020s. As other designers have caught onto their approach, all eyes will be on their next steps.
7 February 2020