Designers are harking back to their archive and we’re here for it…
Although we can all agree that fashion in the naughties left the most sour of tastes in our mouths, and perhaps the decade we would all certainly agree to bury deep in our subconscious, but, like all polarizing trends, there are minor gems that spring to mid and draw a resounding, “Ahh, those were cute… I still want them!”
Well if you’ve got a lust in your heart for 90s and naughties fashions that were either to expensive to afford at 6 years old, or weren’t that appealing at the time but in hindsight, were pretty amazing… well you’re not the only ones to think so. The whole function of a restorative archive is the need to retrieve or draw necessary inspiration when the time permits. Designers past and present have valued the importance of an extensive archive for potential fabric swatches, pattern-cutting techniques, or, in many cases lifting complete pieces to revive for a newer, sometimes nostalgic consumer.
Streetwear was once completely identifiable by sportswear and independent skater labels such as Supreme and Palace however, this brought a great inability to regard Streetwear in the same category as the luxury houses, though, some pieces reached luxury price points, especially on the resell market. By 2012, the hypebeast subculture (and yes, I think it’s safe to say that individuals with shared values, customs and uniform should be regarded as a subcultural group) grew out as an offshoot of these identifiably Streetwear labels.
With many subcultural groups such as Mods who lifted inspiration from home county gentleman of the early 19th century, sourcing vintage pieces became and remains to this day a necessary pilgrimage, the older the find, the greater it is in value, thus a higher price point. Luxury fashion houses caught onto to this model and realised just how much these Streetwear enthusiasts were willing to spend on one off/ vintage finds and began to cultivate their own interpretations of the aesthetic.
As Instagram ensues, users have become more and more conscious of the fact that the art to garnering a larger follower base is largely based on the curation of the individual’s page- style is a huge factor. Repeating outfits has virtually become a sin and therefore sourcing vintage pieces becoming a sport. Online marketplaces such as Depop, Grailed and Vestiaire have now served as the e-commerce destination facilitating buyers with fashion’s most extensive consumer archive. With 12million users and 80% of its users ranging from ages 12- 24, Depop’s in- app sales have amassed upwards of $230,000,000.
With that in mind the past two seasons have seen resurgence in key acclaimed pieces of the 90s and 00s. At Prada Resort 2020, we saw the revival of the iconic bowling bag by Prada in four new colour variants. Made popular by LA’s A and B- lister.
Maison Margiela’s Tabi boot which first appeared SS95 collection, has had perhaps the most interesting origin stories. In a 2015 interview between Martin Margiela and Geert Bruloot, thee revelation was made by monsieur Margiela himself, as deriving from the Japanese Jaki-tabi a sock shoe emblematic of a bare foot. To this day the boot remains as the “most important footprint of my career: it’s recognisable, it still goes on after 25 years, and it has never been copied” – Martin Margiela. The boots have flooded Instagram style feeds and even made an appearance at this year’s 2019 Golden Globes worn by American Horror Story Cody Fern.
That belted leather Versace harness dress. We all know the one. Which made an appearance at the 2018 American Crime Story’s Assassination of Gianni Versace worn by Penelope Cruise during her portrayal of Donatella Versace. Donatella’s Pre-fall collection was reminiscent of the infamous dress and iterations of the harness were evident throughout.
The Saddlebag: 2018’s hottest bag. Created by John Galliano’s creative Direction at the French house. The bag’s revival by Maria Grazia Chiuri has seemed to remain in a steady upwards climb. With copious variations emerging out of the house; the saddle isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.
Not to mention 2019’s biggest trend of them all; Logo everything! From Chanel and the teeny tiny bikini originally modeled by Stella Tennant in 1996 and viewed recently by Kim Kardashian, to Louis Vuitton; those vintage monogramed bucket hats, miniskirts, bikini tops have plagued these fashion streets for the past couple seasons and they’re only going to get worse (for the better). It’s in with the old and the new.
22 May 2019