British Fashion Council has just announced the NEWGEN fashion designer recipients

The scheme has announced the names as part of this 2023/24’s initiative.

The British Fashion Council have just announced the recipients of their most exciting and celebrated emerging talent initiative: the BFC NEWGEN. The scheme awards the fashion industry’s worthiest burgeoning designers with financial grants, showcasing opportunities, and individual mentoring sessions for their businesses. Aiming to build a global industry of responsible fashion brands, this year’s designers will be celebrating the 30th anniversary of the showcase, where BFC will be hosting celebrations with exhibitions at the Design Museum in London sponsored by Alexander McQueen. 

The BFC NEWGEN recipients are all chosen based on their creativity, strong design aesthetic, and point of difference. With applications open from the 12th of January 2023 to the 7th of March 2023, designers were picked through their categories, including RTW Womenswear, RWT Menswear, and Accessories. This year, the portraits for BFC NEWGEN were shot by Rankin, who captured each young recipient on the list.

For ‘23/ ‘24, the designers are Aaron Esh, Ancuta Sarca, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, Derrick, Di Petsa, Eftychia, Feben, Harri, Helen Kirkhum, Kazna Asker, Labrum London, Leo Carlton, Masha Popova, Paolo Carzana, Robyn Lynch, S.S. Daley, Saul Nash, Sinéad O’Dwyer, The Winter House, Tolu Coker, and Yhan Wang. 

Since its inception in 1993, BFC NEWGEN has produced the likes of Alexander McQueen, Grace Wales Bonner, and Richard Quinn through their support. This year, the list of names is already looking promising, including the likes of Chet Lo whose instantly recognisable spikes have ushered in a new wave of it-girl wear, and S.S. Daley, who hit fashion week headlines by bringing out Sir Ian McKellan to the runway in his sailor-inspired FW23 collection. 

Others include Ancuta Sarca’s sporty heels and mules with football-boot silhouettes, rising talent Aaron Esh’s interpretation of menswear, and Helen Kirkhum’s take on the British footwear industry. Irish designer Robyn Lynch also graces the list of names, known for her nostalgic approach to men’s luxury sportswear, as well as Saul Nash and the technical garments that revel in the liberation of movement.

Supported by the BFC Designer Initiatives Programme and BFC NEWGEN committee, Sarah Mower MBE is the BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent and Guest Curator of this year’s NEWGEN 30 exhibition. On the BFC NEWGEN list, she says “NEWGEN is a foundation of London’s reputation for continually producing and uplifting young talent of all kinds, from everywhere. What is extremely moving and impressive about this generation is that they are activists; they are committed to sustainability, equality, and equal opportunity and that’s something we’re really proud of.”

Caroline Rush CBE, who is the Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council, says “A huge congratulations to the 23/24 recipients. BFC NEWGEN is unique and a true recognition of the UK as a launchpad for creative talent who go on to lead the industry globally. Celebrating this year’s recipients is all the more exciting in light of the 30th anniversary of the initiative. We are focused on creating an environment for creative and innovative businesses to succeed, and continue to nurture socially responsive and dynamic designers at the zeitgeist of British culture.”

PhotographyRankin
WriterElla Chadwick