Announced by Fashion Scout, the international showcase for rising talent in the industry, the four designers will walk-on of the most highly anticipated shows of LFW.
For its 13th season, Fashion Scout have selected Gala Borovic, IA London, Studio Adaptive Skins and AV as SS20’s brightest new designers. The four winners were selected from hundreds of applicants, they drew attention from industry experts on the judging panel for their innovative, politically driven and powerful collections.
Judges, Fashion Scout’s Founder and Creative Director Martyn Roberts said on the winning designers: “We are extremely excited to showcase our SS20 Ones To Watch Award Winners. The selection panel judges were impressed with the technical skills, fabric development and print techniques on show. Fashion Scout are excited to give this seasons winners the opportunity to continue building their brand and profile on a global scale.”
Find out more on the four designers below:
Originally from Pessac, in the French Bordeaux’s suburbs, Vincent Lapp launched his couture label in 2018. Dedicated to creating mindful fashion, raising polemic, tackling society absurdities and engaging in essential struggles such as sustainability. A fashion graduate from Central Saint Martins, his collection was developed as a statement against fanaticism and religious obscurantism following a satirical approach, and received acclaim in Dazed, Vogue Italy and 1 Granary, alongside Richard Quinn selecting the label for his Love Magazine graduate choice.
The SS20 collection is a continuation and evolution of his past collection. It looks at the place of the female body within religion alongside addressing the covering of the body, hair and face. His development especially nurtured from the French movie ‘Le ciel attendra, which depicts how false promises and deceit can lead young girls to the path of radicalism and obscurantism.
Originating from Serbia, Gala Borovic launched her namesake label in 2018 after gaining two Masters degrees from Fashion Design, at Faculty of Applied Arts in Belgrade and ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in the Netherlands. Gala sees herself as a maximalist who is experimenting with levelling- up the importance of a process with the final outcome. The brand symbolizes an adult playground, a platform which counter reacts on the emotionless and remote fashion industry. By focusing on textile, print and concept development Gala’s working process regularly includes capturing the intimacy of essential life moments. She is re-using bizarre and unpredictable forms by turning them into concepts, concepts into garments and garments into collections. Finally, the brand provokes personal transformation of the new self where the reality is based on misbalance, asymmetry, and ever-lasting change.
The collection to be showcased at Fashion Scout has taken inspiration from “The Base”. In 2015 “The Base” was created as a private, art studio which represents a modern space for a justified escape from reality. Initially empty and deserted, the interior was built through the arrangement of many old things, second-hand furniture, antiques, waste and amateur art creations of members. Often chaotic, and subject to constant transformations as well as sudden changes in appearance and energy. During the 4 years, Base took on the most diverse forms, both for their purpose and purpose of members. Every individual had subconsciously intended to leave a trace in physical or spiritual form, thereby contributing the development of this space. The SS20 prints and textures are inspired by this place, and artworks including sculptures, artefacts and drawings.
IA London is a British avant-garde fashion brand delivering artistic content in the form of distinctive-looking garments and accessories. IA London was founded in 2017 by Cambridge-based designer Ira Iceberg, whose vision is one of wholly personalised fashion.
To support IA London’s vision, a unique design process was developed in stages, whereby a series of original hand-painted artworks, created by the founder, are digitally printed directly on the pattern. These paintings become the surface of IA’s garments and define their distinctive appearance, unprecedentedly integrating fashion and art.
IA London’s SS20 collection ‘I’m Bias-Blind’ is inspired by King Lear, the recurring images of sight and blindness illustrate the theme of self-knowing and consciousness, producing a situation in which those with healthy eyes are ignorant of what is going on around them, and those without vision, appear to ‘see’ the clearest. Healthy eyes appear to be infected by prejudices., producing biases- corrupted vision. Blindness embraces diversity with no regard for colour, age, gender. This is interrupted in oversized silhouettes, childlike accessories, and layers of sheer fabrics.
Studio Adaptive Skins
Studio Adaptive Skins was founded in 2018 by designer Jef Montes. Adaptive skins is a textile architecture studio based in Arnhem, Netherlands, with a strong emphasis on responsive materials. A new approach to creating shape within the materials rather than cutting patterns out of 2D fabric. The materials are applied to the human skin but also connected to the structure of a building and interior. Responsive to the human and its surrounding the textiles improve the function and experience of: body, light, energy, areas, acoustics and climate.
The SS20 Collection will show the past, present and future of the label and work crated under designer Jef Montes. The inspiration for the collection is La Moreneta, which depicts Madonna with a child on her lap. The sphere in her right hand symbolizes the universe. The child’s raised hand is a gesture of blessing. The pine cone in the other hand is a sign of fertility and eternal life. The blackface of the Madonna remains a mystery. A possible cause is a smoke from candles that were put on her feet for centuries to worship. Another possibility is that it is originally dark coloured. Her colour represents an unresolved issue.