Art & Culture / Fashion & Beauty

Five exciting CSM graduate designers breaking the mould

Central Saint Martins is renowned for releasing avant-garde rule-breakers into the world of fashion design. And from the knitted fruit flying at front row to models becoming blow up body builders, the 2018 BA students did not disappoint. We spoke to five of CSM’s young designers about the future of fashion and concepts behind the craziness…

Patrick McDowell (@PATRICK_MCDOWELL)

This 23 year old from the Wirral has already dressed Rita Ora and Sinead Burke, and Swarvoski let him use surplus crystals for his graduate collection. The huge hooded silhouettes, clashing gingham and clunky boots are all influenced by his hiking dad and glamorous mum.

McDowell on the future of fashion: “I see the future of fashion as a safe inclusive space for people to express their own individual style. Through customisation and customer design we will see a new era of bespoke individualised clothing. I see a sustainable future of designers who value the ethics of their practice and the impact their business has on the planet.”

Pierre-Louis Auvray(@FORBIDDENKN0WLEDGE)

This French 23 year old is redefining model physiques, with plastic bulging muscles and elf pointed football boots. Taking inspiration from Medieval Wrestling and WWE, Pierre-Louis Auvray’s models are “sexy but intimidating” aka an empowering team of non-conformers.

Auvray on the future of fashion: “To me, it’s looking forward when it comes to designing. If you look around, most big brands look at archives and try to recycle existing ideas. I think it’s fine to pay tribute to past achievements but in the context of fashion shows it becomes a bit boring.” And his collection is definitely far from boring.

Matilda Soderberg (@_matildasoderberg_)

Commenting on “the absurdity of a capitalist economy”, Matilda Soderberg created walking cartoon drawings, with satellite dish and antenna-accessorised models. The 27 year old Nina Stewart award winner from Sweden proves fashion’s limitless creativity, using it to critique the alienation of modern society.

Soderberg on the future of fashion: “I don’t see the point in trying to maintain the fashion industry as we know it today. We need to make everyone involved in the history of their own garments in order to appreciate our material possessions and make them last longer.”

Ranura Edirisinghe (@ranura.e)         

Loughborough’s Ranura Edirisinghe has his own army of knitted aliens. Playing with abstract art and fashion, the 23 year old was awarded the Samsung Fashion Design Fund Award. Edirisinghe’s emphasis on making imagery rather than clothes crafted an authentically artistic collection.

Edirisinghe on the future of fashion: “It’s all about creating a future that you want fashion to be. Change is exciting but it’s important to be critical of what is ahead of us and to challenge what is expected.”

Gui Rosa (@guiguir0sa)

Knitted Swarovski aubergines and bananas, ostrich feathered dresses and matching exotic headpieces; this 23 year old Portugese print designer is a glamorous maximalist. Gui Rosa loves matching absolutely everything, inspired by his Grandma’s Chanel skirts, he’s bringing back fashion’s exhibitionist glam. In his own words, “It’s clothing for the southern European slag but apparently modest Abuela.”

Rosa on the future of fashion: “It’s all about wearing eveningwear in the daytime!”

11 July 2018

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