Bored of seeing the same ol’ beauty blogger post (#ad)? Get Ines Marzat on your radar – the boundary pushing creative using technology to create 3D makeup, with next-level results. We first spotted the Parisian’s sc-fi face action on Korean artist/Insta-girl MLMA’s ‘gram: a weird and wonderful mix of fluro flowers, insects and rain moving across her face. “My inspiration comes from our planet,” Marzat tells us. “I’m inspired by shapes, colours, movements, shadows; sometimes it’s just the person I collaborate with that inspires me; sometimes I just get lost into 3D experimentations. “Errors” can lead to magnificent results. The texture of a flower can be as reflective as a mirror in a second.” HUNGER caught up with Ines to talk new beauty rules and building her own reality…
Hey Ines! How did you get into makeup design?
I studied in an applied arts school in Paris. I also went to l’institut français de la mode, in Paris too, to learn about fashion management. I am originally an art director in advertising specialised in luxury, fashion and beauty. I’ve started experiencing with 3D while working on HD cosmetics still lives. I instantly dug the limitless world of CGI. Ever since, my fascination for makeup and cosmetics have been growing bigger and bigger. After many years getting around 3D softwares, learning, experimenting and taking courses, I found my own self-defining way : adding digital elements on human faces. By doing so, I was accidentally creating makeup from the future. I started with fashion beauty pictures I borrowed from photographers I love. Now I collaborate directly with models and artists.
Can you talk me through the process of 3D makeup? How did you create MLMA’s look?
I love to collaborate. To me, there is nothing better in this world than finding the right artistic connection. Uniting different skills, styles and backgrounds. I’m not really keen on working just for myself. That’s why I began asking around to artists I love if they wanted to wear one of my 3D makeup. Usually I ask them to send me videos of themselves, looking at the camera, acting like they are making a selfie video to show the world how they love their digital makeup. I send them technical guidelines, adding tracking points on their face for example is the most important thing I need to make the magic happen. That’s what my 3D software needs to learn how the face moves so the 3D can follow it realistically. After tracking the face, I 3D model what I have in mind. Sometimes the ideas come from the face of the persons, their instagram nicknames, their style, the way they dress, I search through their art pieces to get to know them better… I try to fit their personnality as much as I can. Then, the rest of the story is a lot of post production magic ! And I mean it, a lot ! Most people I collaborate with like to be surprised. Getting their reaction after sending the first tests means the world to me. So far people have been giving me a total trust and artistic freedom. I cherish that. Some of them like to discuss about it with me, see how their real makeup can mix with the 3D one. MLMA had a very precise idea of what she wanted. She even made a drawing to explain her idea. That was very challenging for me because I really look up to her art !
How would you describe your aesthetic in three words?
Whimsical, genderless and forward-thinking.
I want to use my 3D skills to make things that don’t exist. That’s what’s interesting with CGI right? When I realised i could create anything with my imagination, patience and 3D softwares, I got into it immediately! That’s what I try to do with 3D makeup. Imagining a makeup that doesn’t exist yet, pushing forwards the limit of beauty, trying to imagine what the future would be. That’s why I often use holographic textures, bubbly bouncy forms, things that come out of the skin, robotic highlighter, it has to look magic in a way. It’s of course genderless (and cruelty free !!) because that’s how I see beauty and its future. It’s for everyone, without any boundaries or limits.