Designer du jour Michael Halpern moved away from his bejewelled 60s partywear come glam rock showcased last season. For his autumn/winter 2019 collection, staged in the Great Gatsby-esque ballroom of the Sheraton Grand (formerly The Park Lane Hotel built in 1927), it was a mixture of grown-up glamour, opulence and rebellion inspired by the Art Deco era.
“A geometric sequin motif in nuances of red evoke a decidedly Art Deco memory of Erté,” show notes explain. “Influenced by the artist’s use of black, sequins are sewn onto black bases for a vivid effect. Here, gold sequins form the shape of vines on black tulle, while three-dimensional cupped sequins appear in pink degrade. Sequins embroidered in layers amplify light retraction and a sense of opulence.”
A flora and fauna pattern in yellow and orange hues features in jersey as well as printed on silver sequins. Gel organza – printed in ombré used on multiple materials – approaches shine from a new avenue along with a blue abstract-motif duchesse satin bonded with metallic foiling. Finally, lamé pompoms and crosses adorn garments as a new take on lustrous embellishment. Low platform shoes created in collaboration with Christian Louboutin echo the materials of the collection. Check out our exclusive backstage imagery below, shot by Stella Morais for HUNGER.