It was in 2017 when renowned designer Phoebe Philo presented her final collection at Celine and stepped away from the fashion limelight. But let’s face it, she is one of the modern greats, and this hiatus simply couldn’t go on much longer. So here we are, back with the news that Philo is releasing another collection. This time, however, it is under a brand new namesake label, much to the delight of fashion fans everywhere.
Known for etching the future of modern womenswear, the influence that Philo had on Celine completely reshifted the brand into what it is today. Her exit from the French Maison in 2015 left a huge gap in the hearts of Philophiles everywhere, but we could finally sleep easy again when reports told us that she would be setting up her own independent label soon. Time passed, and Philo’s brand was still nothing but a rumour. Then in 2021, she officially took it public with her plans to open Phoebe Philo, stating now (albeit two years later) on her Instagram that it was coming in September 2023.
“Inaugural collection will be revealed and available on our website, phoebephilo.com, in September 2023,” said the statement. “We’ll be opening for registration in July 2023 and look forward to being back in touch then.” It will run as mainly independent, but will also receive some backing from the luxury giant LVMH.
“I have had a very constructive and creative working relationship with LVMH for many years,” she explained to the WWD. “So it is a natural progression for us to reconnect on this new project. I have greatly appreciated discussing new ideas with Bernard Arnault and Delphine Arnault, and I am delighted to be embarking on this adventure with their support.” She continued: “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.”
It was also revealed that she would be creating “clothing and accessories rooted in exceptional quality and design.” Many are predicting this to mean a see-now-buy-now collection rather than opting in for the fashion week antics. WWD then reported that the first collection will include 150 styles that will all be made available to buy from an online store that will ship to the UK, US, and across Europe, including RTW, leather goods, jewellery, eyewear, and footwear. The cherry on top of the Philo cake? Her Celine-era mainstay Canadian-Ukranian model Daria Werbowy will be coming out of retirement to act as the face of the brand.
So what can we expect from Philo? It’s anyone’s guess. Well, she pioneered the boho-glam of the noughties, completely shifted Chloé’s reputation and global sales, turned into fashion legend status at Celine in 2008 with contemporary minimalism, and defined the mid-2010s with practical womenswear genius. So whatever it looks like, there are high expectations to exceed.