Moving online, the fashion showcase took us into the digital future for SS21.
Confused by tall he lookbooks, videos and installations this London fashion week? Us too, which is why we’ve pulled together a cheat sheet of all our favourite moments from this season’s digitally-focused showcase. Scroll below for clowns, interspecies romance and the cycling gear of dreams.
For SS21, Burberry collaborated with endurance performance artist Anne Imhof – fitting because 2020 has felt like an endurance test. Celebrating the rejuvenating power of nature, partially inspired by Riccardo Tisci’s lockdown spent with his 92-year-old mother by Lake Como, the live-streamed show saw models walk in a forest clearing, swapping the usual audience of editors and buyers for towering pine trees. With the show notes for the collection referencing lighthouse keepers, “dynamic youth” and a love story between a shark and a mermaid, Tisci delivered a whimsy that we’ve been sorely missing amid an onslaught of depressing headlines.
Qasimi’s SS21 collection, landed with a revelation: the brand would be launching a womenswear line. Keeping it in the family, the new venture has been placed under the creative direction of Hoor Al-Qasimi, twin sister to the label’s founder Khalid. The collection itself, showcased via fashion video, drew inspiration from Al Sadu, a Bedouin weaving tradition, and a fusion of Islamic symbols and West African designs.
Vivienne Westwood gifted us a chaotic good collection, modelled by the likes of poet Kai-Isiah Jamal, Isamaya Ffrench and even Dott Cotton an IRL clown. Channelling the legendary designer’s punk roots, graphic tees read “true punk” (suitably in your face) in a digitally-released look book lensed by model Alice Dellal and accompanying video. Proving she’s a rebel with a cause, she’s championing the “buy less” environmentalist cause and announcing that she’s aiming to only show one collection a year.
This season, Robyn Lynch returned with an SS21 lookbook that celebrated her Irish identity by repurposing images from Taz Darling’s 2008 Tour de Ireland series as backdrops. Keeping with the biking theme (clearly she’s been staying active during lockdown) Lynch presented a collection of cycling shorts, jackets and tops using logos of companies on the Baldoyne Industrial Estate in Dublin, all of whom have been her “sponsors” since she started her BA in 2011.
I think we can all agree that we need more joy, and thankfully Bethany Williams delivered a healthy dose for SS21. Teaming up with taste-making photographer Ruth Ossai and charity Magpie Trust, the collection, entitled ALL OUR CHILDREN, conveys a sense of youthful delight via bright colours and prints and patterns based on children’s drawings.
Click here for more details of what went down at LFW.
23 September 2020