Fresh off the fashion week schedule, London’s top fashion students are kicking off their loafers, brewing themselves a cup of tea, and reflecting on everything they saw on the runway. So we, of course, took the opportunity to speak to the next gen of designers, writers and photographers to get the low-down on this season’s hottest takeaways.
Surprisingly, this time around, it’s not all as it seems within the fashion community, as many style spectators are seemingly trading in their tabis for their thinking caps. Speaking to students from Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, it is evident that their trend-casting is overshadowed by the politics of fashion, and the knock-on effect this has had on the runway.
In and around their favourite Soho pubs or east London home studios, the creatives flit between appreciating the shows and working towards a unified version of FW with greater emphasis on sustainability and originality. From SS Daley at London Fashion Week to Heliot Emil at Paris Fashion Week, the standout moments were sometimes tinged with the viral quality of stunts performed, and undoubtedly, have swayed the focus away from the garments themselves. “Fashion kids know that trends to come off the runway are a capitalist trap,” one student designer tells HUNGER. “My favourite thing about the runways is the toxic abuse of greenwashed, vintage-looking fashion made from new textiles,” sarcastically corroborates a student fashion photographer.
As one stylish fashion writer puts it: “The best trend to come off the runway is the amazing work of the individual women in the industry.” Referring to Alexandra Sipa’s post, which pointed out a distinct lack of equity in the industry, the important discussion has been making its rounds post fashion week in the light of International Women’s Day.
Although conversations did tend to steer toward the politics of fashion weeks and the holes that need patching up, others were keen to acknowledge the discreet trends that tackled politics in their own right, such as womenswear’s relationship to ties and embellishments like menswear taking on bows, as well as post-apocolyptic accessories detailing the importance of climate change. Here, the fashion students of London relay a quick insight of what they will be donning this season, amidst the dying chatter of this FW.
“Ties for any gender in SS Daley and David Koma. They are already out on the streets, to be honest, but give a tie like a 20s style outfit and it looks sick.” – Lis
“Zips. But they have been around forever. I love when someone does an asymmetrical all-over-the-body zip right – like post-apocalyptic.” – Millie
“Short hair on the runways. They stole my look but I’ll let them off.” – Bea
“Richard Malone did skirts over trousers. It’s a current trend but he just made it look more cutting-edge. It reminded me of my Gran’s curtains for some reason but in a really cool way.” – Matilda
“The leather that doesn’t look like leather. At Bottega Venetta they had sock slippers that were actually made from leather and then there were the mini bags that looked like rope. I love it.” – Jade
“Bows and ribbons everywhere!” – Livvy
“Baggy disgusting trackie bottoms, tight t-shirts, and fucked up hair.” – Louis
“Super saturated floral patterns and motifs. Groundbreaking, I know, but I love the transition from AW to SS.” – Alicia
“Ruffles! Especially in couture. Comme des Garçons at PFW was a dream.” – Gemma
“Basic bitches in the metaverse. I’m looking at Coperni.” – Jamie
“Black tie is back and I’m here for it.” – Alice
“Ballerina shoes for sure.” – Lauren
“Statement bags – the more abstract and weirder the better.” – Tyler