Rationalising Nationalism with Les Hommes’ new season offering

The latest season saw Les Hommes producing an utterly personal yet emotional collection. Denoting an intimate journey “far closer to home” as specified by the Creative Directors, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, the label’s homeland, Belgium, was given homage to in a very special way. Through a collection rich of references to past experiences, the duo categorised three of the major pillars that identify their country and city.

On one hand, some pieces characterised national sport cycling, with cuts, shapes, patterns and colours, alongside vintage cyclists knit. On another, though, the clothing represented Antwerp’s Academy experience: a textural concoction of construction and deconstruction, leading to creations that epitomised novelty and individuality. Music had a strong connotation throughout the collection, precisely aimed towards the ‘90s techno scene which influenced Europe back in the day. Moreover, tailoring busted into a sartorial whirlwind: structured jackets met bombers, generating arresting ensembles.

Phlegmatic silhouettes overmastered oversized jackets and trench coats, glimpsing fabrics like wool, nylon and plastic. Organza and leather took a cool stance too, making the apparel resemble crumbled paper in reflective gold. Chromatism was, undeniably, a core for the brand this season, starring hues of acid magenta, yellow, green, shock-pink and klein blue, all intermixed with a traditional palette of blue, navy and black. Streamlining the faddish? Feasibly, Les Hommes has just exposed its slickest verdict.