Malone’s AW19 collection pays homage to ‘dressing up’ across generations at a family party, helped by the set of balloons and childlike party decorations designed by Amy Stickland. This enforcing a duality and a forced politeness to this collection, wherein Malone take on the role of child and parental advisor (a very well-dressed one!) The black colors of the supposedly celebratory set are contrasted against the mature styling of the collection.
The opening few looks present draped maroon tailoring, accentuated with vinyl segments that are stitched into the skirt. Slowly the maroon fabrics are juxtaposed against light blues and graphic prints in a few layered looks. Malone pays homage to the female figure with his use of ruching and draping but the hair styles and eclectic embellishments offer a contemporary twist on the flattering tailoring. Loose threading and careful fraying was also repeated throughout the collection, adding a gentle touch to the powerful silhouettes of the exaggerated shoulder pads and ballooned sleeves.
Despite the humour of the retro party-style outfits and the frock coats fashioned from workwear twills typically found in school uniforms, these hand-woven silhouettes are for grown-ups. To quote the designer, the pieces are perhaps for those who “might have to take their kids to school with a raging hangover.”
As an Irish immigrant, the 29th of March looms large, and consequentially Malone has been forced to consider seeking Settlement Status. One thinks back to the idea of badly-lit, charming community-centre gatherings, mums’ doors flung open for street parties. Simpler times.
20 February 2019