The Estonian designer’s AW19 catwalk presents her second show and is perhaps the designers most personal and eclectic collection yet.
The mythical set design was curated by Alice Andrews who brought in London based flower company Rebel Rebel to create an ethereal display of flowers and reindeer moss which complimented the multifarious mix of disco trousers and embellished suits.
Amongst the collection were an abundance of check prints and tartan, an homage to her grandmother’s wardrobe. The prints appear throughout the collection, through a variety of pieces- the show opened with an elegant shirt dress in said pattern and as the looks evolved, more tailored blazer dresses appeared with neon accessories – giving a contemporary accent to her Estonian heritage. The embroideries become more evident as the collection continues, one jumper had eccentric sequin embellishments cascading down the left arm – matching the set design beautifully – adding a gaiety to the conventional knit jumper.
Most of the motifs and embroideries were inspired by Soviet era postcards and posters and these are combined with traditional Russian embroidery, thus her grandmother’s influence seeps into her concurrent printmaking. Many of the pieces are contemporary updates of classic items from her grandmother’s wardrobe which is the essential framing of the collection. This fuses Roberta Einer’s signatures; digital textiles dressed to complement a feminine frame.
A new addition to her AW19 collection was the puffa jacket that riffs more on the side of a gardening jacket – another ode to her grandmother as she was a keen gardener and once won a prize for the most beautiful garden given by the Estonian president. This honour distills itself throughout light touches in the collection; retro crystal-shaped floral earrings, bejewelled snakes and geckos scattered across the looks and lush moss greens for the frayed silk bomber-puffa.
Notably present, making two appearances on the catwalk, was Jessie Andrews; model and entrepreneur who is close friends with the designer and arguably a modern day muse for the brand. Go behind-the-scenes, with backstage coverage from Micaela McLucas for HUNGER.
20 February 2019