We round up faves including Bianca Saunders' though-provoking zine, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY's celebration of Black artistry and Di Petsa's meditation on water's healing properties.
Back in April, due to the COVID-19 crisis, the British Fashion Council announced that LFW would not only be embracing the gender-neutral agenda but would also be moving all presentations online. This week, the new approach was put to the test as LFW’s first-ever all-digital edition launched. Despite taking a more pared-back approach, on the whole, designers like Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, Bianca Saunders and HUNGER fave Ahluwalia all rose to the challenge.
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The Catford-born menswear designer’s fluid silhouettes have also pushed the boundaries of gendered fashion, making her latest venture, zine ‘We Are One Of The Same’, all the more fitting. Featuring Saunders’ designs, modelled on twins and lensed by Harlem-born photographer Joshua Woods, alongside poetry by writer Jess Cole, it’s a meditation on gender, identity and sameness in difference. Available to order here, it’s a take-home piece of fashion week that trumps catwalk ephemera any day.
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Originally intending to stage a party, reminiscent of the club nights from which the LOVERBOY label was born, Glaswegian designer Charles Jeffrey’s LFW live stream SOLASTA (“shining” in Gaelic) ended up being radically different to what he’d first envisaged. In light of the recent developments in the anti-racist movement, the designer opted to use his platform to celebrate Black British creativity. The likes of dancer Malik Nashad Sharpe and poet Kai-Isaiah Jamal performed, wearing designs by Jeffrey’s former Westminster students. Committing to making positive change, viewers were urged to donate to UK Black Pride and the proceeds from Jeffrey’s corresponding capsule collection will go to Kaleidoscope Trust.
Priya Ahluwalia has been at the forefront of reinventing sustainable fashion with colourful, playful pieces created entirely from deadstock. For LFW, the Indian-Nigerian designer took a more personal turn, presenting photobook and 3D virtual reality exhibition Jalebi. Delving into her dual heritage, the project explores the beauty of diversity through a focus on Southall, Britain’s first Punjabi community. All proceeds from the hardback photo book will go to the Stephen Lawrence Charitable Trust and Southall Black Sisters — pick up your copy here.
Jalebi exhibition, Priya Ahluwalia
Greek designer Dimitra Petsa is known for wet-look pieces sported by the likes of Kylie Jenner but her political message, pushing the boundaries of “acceptable” femininity, is what’s made her a firm fashion pack favourite since debuting in AW20. With a “breastfeeding corset” and a penchant for “pee-stain pattern” trousers, her designs are equal parts radical and outrageous. For LFW, she debuted new film Self-Birth, which explores the healing qualities of water to a score by musician Xtos. Food (and drink?) for thought.
17 June 2020