The exhibition celebrating London’s young creative talent

New wave aesthetics.

Celebrating the exciting tastemakers shaping London’s creative scene, Twin X is a must-see group exhibition that draws on the archive of biannual fashion and art publication Twin magazine. Exploring the intersection of fashion, photography and art in contemporary culture, photographers exhibiting their works include the likes of Colin Dodgson, Boo George, Cass Bird, Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, Dexter Navy, and Akinola Davies Jr amongst others, alongside seminal imagery of models from Alek Wek to Chloë Sevigny. HUNGER caught up with Twin art editor and curator Francesca Gavin to find out more.

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Talk me through the process of selection? How is the exhibition separated?

Becky [Smith, Twin magazine founder] initially went through the laborious process of going through every hoot and pulling out relevant images. She broke them down into categories – photographers, people/ artists/ models and unseen. We put together a collective of different female curators and creative and had some sessions editing down the work, creating a coherent and balanced selection of work. As she puts it, it was a bit like the editing process in X Factor. But with scissors and more creative talent.

Many new creatives/designers/photographers have been discovered on Instagram – is this something you’ve explored in this exhibition?

We didn’t make Instagram part of the focus in terms of how we presented or commission the work in the show. In fact, the exhibition is highlights the kind of thoughtful, incredible work being made outside of digital platforms! I am a big fan of the freedom, creativity and intelligence that can happen in print. Magazines have a different kind of speed and don’t have a problem with nipples… Saying that obviously we are all engaged with Instagram and I myself and I’m sure everyone at Twin are always discovering new talent there (as much as in shows, editorial and everywhere else).

 

Photograph of Alek Wek by Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, Issue 9, 2017

Is there a focus on London-based talent specifically? How many pieces will be on display total?

Twin has always all been based in London, however many shoots and commission do happen in NY, Paris, Milan, Japan or Africa… The exhibition reflects that – but there is definitely a London thing here. There are 40 framed pieces (with the help of GF Smith framing) and a further 10 very large scale prints. The focus is on the photographic.

On a personal level, what’s your thoughts on the rise of ‘Insta-artists’; how can social media be good a good (or bad) space for young artists? Does it have power to promote real change?

I look at Instagram for artists all the time – and I also highlight the work of an emerging artist every Monday on the platform on my own feed. For me that was about trying to bring wider attention to often unrepresented or lesser known artists who deserve more attention. When it comes to social change, I think that online has a role but that real change has to happen in real 3D form. Ticking an online petition is not the same as other forms of more pressing protest. I think in a wider sense we need to be aware that platforms like Instagram are flawed because of their commercial structure and we need to be creating new networks, new subcultures, new forms of disseminating imagery and creativity and conversation online and off. Digital images are powerful but nothing as powerful as going to an exhibition or reading a publication.

Photograph of Niko Riam by Mariana Sanvito, Issue 19, 2018

What young emerging photographers and creative talents are you really excited about in 2019 and why?

Alexander Ingham Brooke is an incredible director and cinematographer doing some amazing creative work in the fashion world. I love the photographic work of Elle Perez in New York, who shows with 47 Canal Street and has a really interesting take on identity and representation. Creative director Karl Koblitz in Berlin has an amazing eye and take on projects.

What challenges have you found young artists in London are facing more now?

The financial pressure is huge. Paying rent is increasingly hard, finding a studio is even harder. There are also a lot of art schools and good talent in the city so you need to have an extra amount of dedication and oomph to get your stuff out there. I always believe talent garners attention but London is a tough nut and young artists really need to create their own networks to survive. As a third generation Londoner, however, I have to say it still is an incredible city.

The future of fashion, in one word?

Slowness.

Photograph of Chloe Sevigny by Kenneth Capello, Issue 4, 2011

Curated collectively by Twin founder Becky Smith; Twin art editor and curator Francesca Gavin; curator and gallerist Antonia Marsh; image director Holly Hay; and Twin fashion editor Naomi Miller; the exhibition runs from Thursday 31 January – Tuesday 5 February 2019 / 12 midday – 7pm (closed Mondays) at 180 The Strand.

InterviewEmma Firth