Thom Browne, Spring/Summer 2020 delivered a somewhat vicious magnificence emblematic of the label’s staple signature. The show was opened by a performance conducted by the American Ballet’s Theatre premier, James B. Whiteside; the show spanned from arresting trompe l’oeil tailoring and swiftly altered into a meticulously crafted French Revolution fashion-killer atmosphere. The show solemnly began after the scene shifted from a selection of 2D garments, which were then removed to reveal Browne’s dazzling apparel beneath. The looks, as elatedly frisky as ever, offered custom elements of Browne’s characteristic silhouettes, uplifting them to a whole new level of craftsmanship and splendour. Empowering shapes evoked dresses worn by the nobles in the Antoinette era, dressed with gargantuan trousers and dagger sportscoats.
Furthermore, pleated skirts appeared as a prime trouser replacement, alongside cropped jackets and jockstraps which emphasised a sportier foretaste to the clothing. Athleisure further-inspired the ball-shaped shoes and lustrous sports balls carried by the models, including baseball-shaped bags, finished off with severalothers sports-like features. Browne’s signature three-striped ribbon appeared as a headband, decked by flowery appliqué and sharp knitwear. The dramatic state sustained its vigorous dynamism, reinforced by the pointy-toed derbies and bell-shaped skirt skeletons, bracing the collection through an utterly Browne-esque approach.