Thom Browne sweeps us out to sea for SS19

After a rather lacklustre start to Paris Fashion Week Thom Browne was on hand to bring back the fantasy, creating an ethereal, dreamlike show that reminded us of fashion’s power to elevate us to another state of mind. Staged in the historical Tennis Club de Paris Thom Browne crafted a beachside dream, inspired by whimsical days of summers past. The collection was nothing short of breathtaking, couture piece after couture piece that allowed us a glimpse into the American designer’s mind. Inspired by the childlike innocence of heady days at the beach and the power of imagination there were sequinned and tulle flowing dresses reminiscent of mermaid’s tales, masks fashioned to look like melting ice cream cones, and bodysuits adorned with sequin crabs and starfish. A blue coat was printed with whales, a shimmering grey blazer and finned hat resembled a sleek shark in the water and a structured red knitted shirt revealed oversized lobster claws at the back. There was even an entirely feathered look – fashion’s seagull. The artistry was like nothing else so far in Paris – a standout multi-beaded dress looked almost Impressionist in style and called to mind the spay of a wave breaking on the beach.

While the collection, artistry and Browne’s creativity were near genius, few people did however point out that the ordeal that each model endured to showcase it was not. All wearing towering mismatched heels, some had their hands and bodies bound by complicated corsetry while others wore beaded Hannibal Lector style masks – a strange and perhaps distasteful choice given the events unfolding in the US this week around the importance of listening to and recognising all women’s voices. This, of course, was most likely not the designer’s intention but it is another reminder that in 2018, when fashion and politics are so intrinsically linked in our minds (and at the forefront of this season’s conversations), every decision made matters, and no one is exempt from being placed under the microscope.

See the collection and backstage imagery below by photographer Jessica Gordon