[D]aniel Fletcher’s debut runway show for SS19 recreates power dressing in subversive ways. The “wearisome pace of the business world informs the agenda for this collection,” he says. “The DANIEL w. FLETCHER man is a hard worker, confronted by the labour of the day, and dragged into the darker underworld of the night as the antidote to this demanding environment.” Expressing a new masculinity, classic tailoring is turned on its head, trousers are slashed down the sides and rope appears to hold seams together.
Challenging gender stereotypes was key: with sadistic undertones found in the reversal of masculine vs. feminine tropes and garms, corsetry, Torsos presented as Grecian female busts and underwear as outerwear. Artist Caitlin Keogh’s prints also featured on silk shirting and scarves, showcasing a woman’s figure in a suspended surrealist state and acted as a comment on workplace misogyny for women who choose to enter the financial arena.
“Daniel’s preppy man was once smart, now ‘fucked up,’” according to Fletcher’s show notes. “An acknowledgement of the infallible battle of dark versus light that can challenge us all.”