Our verdict: You usually emerge from a Moschino show feeling all fuzzy inside. It’s a laugh, it’s cheery, there’s a sense of frivolity to proceedings – in a word, it’s a hoot. Not tonight though. Jeremy Scott was in no mood for fun and games, and frankly who can blame him. The world is in an apparent state of disrepair with no solutions on the horizon and no one in any positions of power to bring any such things to fruition. Shitshow sums it up quite nicely. And with that in mind Moschino’s Pre-Fall 17 collection was a more sombre affair than we’ve been privy to in a while. Banish all thoughts of cartoons, dolls and teddy bears from your mind and instead replace them with Moschino’s vision of a soldier.
Military dressing was given the Jeremy Scott twist with olive green jumpsuits and ballgowns paired with combat and cavalry boots, and worn with harnesses. Camouflaged separates came accessorised with bags with enough pockets to hold everything from your penknife to your water bottle and Judy Blame leant a hand to create berets decorated with metal hardware that resemble disassembled Swiss Army knives. Alongside the tough though, there was the soft too. Jeremy Scott interspersed images if angels and flowers onto pieces, presenting his own vision of hope for the future, a sartorial prayer for beauty to bloom from the wreckage. Capturing the mood of a nation, we wouldn’t mind seeing more designers wear their heart on their sleeve as openly as Scott did this season. This time, we’re with him.