[I]f there’s one way to jolt a crowd of fashion editor’s into a frenzy it’s a Matty Bovan show. The Fashion East-er – showcasing his third collection for London Fashion Week – showcased a Fast and Furious spectacular runway, with Edie Campbell leading the pack of dystopian biker chics.
There is always a strong ugly/pretty vibe with Bovan’s work, and the designer went all out on the fluro Mad Max makeover for SS18 in his successful quest to build his “own parallel world of post-apocalytic utopianism.” GOT THAT? Matty’s sci-fi mean girls – including Winnie Harlow, Georgia-May Jagger and Hailey Baldwin – are not to be messed with.
Like Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma show during NYFW, the emerging Brit talent revealed a penchant for extreme sports performance wear, from skateboarding to motocross, with aggressive logos and print fighting for space across dresses, skirts and t-shirts. Translucant kneepads decorate handbags. Individually crafted acrylic shin pads decorate arms. Knitwear is shredded. It’s Miss Jolie in Gone in 60 seconds meets Daryl Hannah in Blade Runner: tough, brutal, practical.
Bovan’s spring ’18 offering is clearly rooted in neo-noir cinema, but the colour palette was pure Warhol with an array of 1960s Pop Art hues – cobalt blue, red, white and yellow – brightening up a post-Brexit future. Uber-extreme eye makeup looks – courtesy of Marc Jacobs beauty – included.
“I’ll take elements that initially I think are gross and manipulate them into something I like,” according to Bovan. “When I start on a new collection, my instinct is to rebel against what people might expect of me. But then I’ll think “Why not just create things that excite me?” Which has been my driving force this season.”