[N]o longer does the fashion world revolve around London, Paris and Milan. With a generation of creatives ignoring the extortionate rents and corporatisation of the world’s fashion capitals, designers from throughout Europe are making an impact. Here, we list five that we’re watching very closely.
Jakub Polanka – @JAKUBPOLANKA
Jakub Polanka is the first ever Czech to graduate from Institut Français de la Mode in Paris, winning several prestigious awards along the way and working with Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Philippe Starck in the process. We love the rich variety of fabrics and the robust utilitarian looks scattered with vintage badges and tags inspired by professional adventurers like the iconic Amelia Earhart.
KDI’s debut collection was shown through the Bloom Lab platform for emerging new designers at Portugal Fashion Week AW16. The brand is all about collaboration and synergy, inspired by the relationship between head designers Inês Gonçalves and Diana Quintal and the ‘Cadaver Exquis’ concept of two languages joining together to form a single vision. The streetwear aesthetic and the interchangeability of the pieces is key to a dynamic collection.
London based Czech designer Martina Spetlova took inspiration from artist Justin Mortimer for AW16. The colourful, energetic collection that followed somehow blends elegance and femininity with hardcore, androgynous silhouettes and a sports luxe edge. All the good things, all in one place.
Anna Tušková and Radka Sirková founded Chatty in 2005 with a focus on customer made, well-crafted denim. Their AW16 collection, though represents a departure and a maturation from the original version of the brand. Taking inspiration from the distressed nature of workmen’s clothing and the dishevelled appearance of Northern Soul party goers when the lights come on, the collection is a nod to 60s and 70s culture as well as the everyday.
With a predilection for opposites – light and shadow, sharp and soft, feminine and masculine – Alexandra Moura is pushing the boundaries of fashion. Modern, unexpected shapes, gender neutrality and playful details make for a groundbreaking AW16.